Oh yeah, I forgot: She has ovaries. If you do want to have negative voltage then just make sure in later steps you follow the additional instructions. Indeed my initial work was performed with just a multimeter to measure the output voltage. On Slackware, the absolute worst is NetworkManager. If your adding the negative voltage wires in add in extra holes for them, you will also need extra banana plugs.
The switch switches the variable voltage from 1. Ok it seems simpler to just add another fan as others suggested, which I will probably do. Basic modified schematics for my power supply are shown below. I normally use 12V, so here you go: Power it up and enjoy using it. From the reference pin R resistors go again to the ground, +5V and +12V.
Feed these cables in to the box in an orderly fassion and ly them in the bottom. I also added holes for two cable glands. You do everything on your own risk. This can especially be seen by observing the fan movement on turn on. While the supply is protected against short circuit it will shut off , that will not prevent the creation of a pile of smoking plastic and molten slag if the short is a bit short of a complete short pun intended. Some kind of load is required for the power supply output.
You can connect the same coloured wires together using crimp connectors or posts, is the same thing. You can keep the 20-pin Molex connector attached and connect directly into it or cut it off completely and group together the individual wires keeping the same colours together, reds to reds, blacks to blacks etc. Also connect together the three orange wires to give a +3. Oh, you wanted a power supply that can give you 5A of 12V source? This is the virtual version of the Power Electronics Forum at electronica with technical papers about innovative applications and technologies, trends and new product offerings covering the whole range of Power Electronics Components, Power Supplies and Batteries. Once these screws have been removed slide the panel towards the rear of the case and then lift it up and out Your case may be different.
You may also find the various heatsinks to be useful in other projects. You can now insert the banana connectors in the other holes and screw in the bolt to keep the crimp connector the one indicated before with the black arrow strongly attached to the back of banana ones. So I took the 5V standby output and connected it to the 5V output. This is a pretty essential thing in a bench supply. Let me leave the current rating at the back.
A lot of this is what I was going to mention as well. Not bad for something that would otherwise get thrown away. I found implementation very interesting. That could be a problem in certain situations — e. Performance Variable output range at 1A load current was from 3V to 48. I always thought the switch simply switches the input caps between parallel an serial connection, For 110V you have essentially a 200V cap with double capacity because with lower voltage you need more current from the mains and for 240V you have one 400V cap with the nominal capacity.
One is a bit old which I took from my colleague desktop computer:. You can use any old tupaware container, I just found it easier to by one from jaycar because they have a pre marked drill grid that makes drilling the holes quick and easy. This gives a mechanical strenght and electrical insulation. The sad reality is that casing for projects can be as expensive or more than the parts for the rest of the project. Once all the connections are done, the back of the 3D printed part looks like that: Via.
But you have to think that you are using a switching power supply, which means that you will always have some ripple. There is a small modification required to use one in this way, one of the lines is an enable line that is held high. Firstly you will need to remove the side pannel of your computer which is usually held in place by several screws on the rear of the case. You will need to take your own risk and be careful with what you are doing. The power supply would power up and then immediately turn off, indicating that the regulator had some kind of 5V sense input. Then pull it out with tongs by grabbing the bobbin, use heavy gloves or some rag and gently twist and pull core halves apart. The same goes for the wiring loom of motherboard and disk power connectors, a handy source of medium-sized hook-up wire.
If you only have three red wires, another wire sometimes pink must be connected to them. I used Eagle to make the label plaque. Begin this by taking the wire cutters and cutting off all of the computer connectors as close to the top of the terminal as possible. Depending on the power supply used, you may need to power a dummy load to the 12V or 3. I used the first one I made for about a year and it is still going strong, this is just V2.