What then follows is a series of numbers. But I'm sure Raleigh had access to the newest Sturmey Archer parts. For example, derailleur cable guides, first clamp-ons and then braze-ons, were located on top of the bottom bracket. Some examples may use one of the two systems listed above, or the later 1973+ variant. Some attempts, offering very different and uncommon solutions to replacing clamp-ons.
Grand Prix dropout photo courtesy Grand Sports dropout photo courtesy Serial system: 1973 0000001 through 0999999? I was thinking it might be nice just to sort the basics and clean then wipe over regularly with an oily rag, but, given the largely black colour scheme possibly has a reason, it would be easy to tidy up further following the same theme, but that removes the history somewhat. However, using those characteristics can be horribly misleading. With the coming of the eighties, the most common location and style of rear brake cable guide was on the top of the top tube and full casing style. Some older bikes and carbon fibre frames do not have numbers so you will need to fit your cycle with an identity tag. The extent of this system's use on other models is unknown.
Scope of Warranties Haibike: Two year warranty on the entirety of the electric bicycle. Rear Brake Cable Guide: Clamp-ons for the first half of the seventies, then braze-ons began appearing in different styles and locations , , , Rear Brake Cable Guide: Braze-on almost exclusively and more through the tube routing. Per above, the serial is the only visible stamping on the frame. Be sure not to mix these screws up as one is longer than the other. Rear Drop-Outs: Mostly long horizontal but some near end of decade. Similar situations will continue to prevail, for some time, as the open community adds information to the vintage bicycle interest, such as this article is attempting to do right now.
The exact specifics of this system remain a mystery. It's so distinctive, but I did not find any useful information. When adding a bike to the Index, it's best to enter all the groups of numbers and letters separated by spaces. Details of the following manufacturers have been published, so I hope this page can provide an easy reference point. Info from the Nottinghamshire Archives 1947: 437689 P 1948: 556894 P 1949: 695051 P 1951: 151179 T 1952: 236530 T 1953: 367369 T 1954: 566722 T 1955: 747951 T 1956: 852312 T 1957: 872584 T 1955 — 1966 A new numbering system was introduced in 1955, though this ran concurrently with the old one for two years.
I had a 1991 bike with Shimano 105. Many did not use chronoligical sequences. As proper factory documentation is very limited, the following charts are a constant work in progress; they have been compiled by examining numerous Raleigh frames from each period, component date codes, decal schemes, color availabilities per year; and - occasionally - official papers. Dutch bikes, trendy coffee cruisers, and beach cruisers may be modern but appear to be 1950s styling. To some extent, these will also help you narrow down the model as well as it will tell you what distinguishing features to look at. I am not aware of any online site to look up Raleigh serial numbers. But then we have that P suffix to the serial number, but it has got one less digit in the serial than those shown in the dating charts.
Early years have been estimated by the Company. By 1949, it had reached about 750,000, the majority of which was exported. My guess is that you are close to the mark--mid-to late 80s--the bike still has a head badge glued by the look of it , Biopace 1983-1993 etc. Each style or location change focusing on improved performance, or durability or both. Note that the serial number information. Low-end manufacturers may continue using technology that is severely outdated such as one-piece cranks, freewheels, or quill stems because it is cheaper to do so. Thanks again, now I'll go and confuse myself further by looking at some of the other catalogues I'm thinking it is the earlier bike now, so the black could have been for wartime use.
This is simply a curiosity that I'd like to answer. When I was banging around I was surprised to find that it was only 2002 that Raleigh finally packed it all in in Nottingham--reposted article about the last work day here: I also found the '4130 CrMo' decal on the ebay. Anything beginning with a G only has 4 numbers after so it's not a G. At this point there are about a dozen employees and production is three high-wheelers a week. Insomnia is my saving grace, otherwise there would be no time for any of this. How much your bicycle is worth depends on the location of the buyer and seller, how much the buyer wants the bike, etc. Shifters were traditionally clamp-on units.
Group, which may help to narrow down a given frame's era: Serial Location: Stamped on bottom bracket. We study 100-year-old magazines to see when certain new innovations were first reviewed it helps us date bicycles with similar features , read correspondence of the time to try to understand contemporary views and opinions, research old catalogues, meet fellow enthusiasts, help each other with restorations, ride our old bikes as much as possible, and work with our elders to pick up tips and wisdom. That said, these charts are representative of U. Fork Crown: The Unicrown fork found acceptance in later half of the eighties. Socket Head Screws: Beginning to surface in the mid-seventies on some high end bikes. Sample is from February 2 Digits 6-9 are sequential. These frames may be related to the M and N leading serial number bikes in the section above.
If you have a Currie-Electro Drive motor, you will likely find your serial number on the inside of a plastic plate on the motor itself. With the exception of bicycle serial numbers, there are few opportunities to otherwise pin-point exact vintage. However, I'd still like to decode that darned frame serial for a more definitive answer. Earlier bikes tended to have less fancy, less colorful, less quantity of decals. Most bikes lost their metal badges in the 60's and early 70's, although some brands still have actual badges to this day, but in general a real badge indicates an earlier model bike. At one time or another, it was sold under almost every brand name owned by Raleigh. Dor your sake and that of fellow collectors, please make 100% sure that your conclusions from this chart are correct.
The only Raleigh I can find that has brazed cable guides is the Raleigh Racing Team frames. Hobbyists, by definition, are eccentric myself included : put more than one in a room together and the outcome is unpredictable. To be honest, its down to you, yes, people might go on about the original patina and all that, but unless there is some very good reason, like provenance to a historic figure, event or similar, it isn't much help if the bike genuinely needs tidying up! In 1968, but with relatively little publicity, Raleigh introduced the Twenty. Rear Derailleur Cable Guide: Usually a clamp-on fitted to the drive side chain stay. Sometimes pretty close and sometimes not. All of the serial cutoffs are approximated.